|
|
|
|
While
Osaka can be characterized in various different ways, its tradition
and culture related to food is probably the most recognized
and best associated feature that describes the city. Its rich
gastronomic culture, which has entitled the city to a nickname "tenka-no
daidokoro (nation's kitchen)," is based on a wide range
of food varieties that have been long cherished by locals,
from popular takoyaki & okonomiyaki snacks to high-end
cuisines. Osaka became a gourmet city not as a place of production
but as a trade center of products. Kombu (kelp), for example,
has been an important ingredient for local cooking although
it is not a local product. Instead, famous shio-kombu (salted
kelp) was created and the culinary technique using kombu dashi
(kelp-based stock) developed as a result of good quality kombu
being harvested in the northern part of the country and brought
to Osaka. Fugu (blowfish) and kani (crab) became local favorites
during winter from the same historical background of the city:
Osaka was the nation's gourmet center to which a variety of
quality ingredients were gathered from all over the nation.
Today, the Osaka Municipal Central Wholesale Market (Fukushima-ku,
Osaka) plays a significant role in supporting people's appetites
and the characteristic food culture of Osaka. Serving various
functions that the public is not always aware of, the wholesale
market is also a great place for us to rethink the relationship
between food and our lives from various perspectives.
What process do these foods go through after they leave their origin and to eventually
reach our dinner table? Let us explore what is taking place today at the wholesale
market, an important relay station of the food distribution. |
|
Fresh food markets in Osaka were
formed centuries ago, about the time when Toyotomi Hideyoshi
built Osaka Castle in the late 16th century. Until the early
Showa period, several markets were located and flourished within
the city, including Tenma, Zakoba, Utsubo, Kizu, and Namba.
The first public market in Osaka was established in April, 1918 (Taisho 7) by
the city to provide commodities to citizens at low prices and to keep the prices
stable. Coincidentally, a series of public protests known as kome-sodo (rice
riots) erupted in July of the same year and expanded throughout the nation, which
eventually led the national government to establish the Central Wholesale Market
Law in 1923 (Taisho 12) to promote the normalization of fresh food trading at
appropriate prices. In the wake of the implementation of the new law, the Osaka
Municipal Central Wholesale Market officially opened in 1931 (Showa 6) at the
present location of the Honjo (Central) Market in Noda, Fukushima-ku, where both
water and ground transportation were convenient. The market has two branches
now, the Tobu (East) Market and the Nanko (South Port) Market. The Honjo and
Tobu Markets handle vegetables, fruits, and seafood, as well as processed products,
while the Nanko Market is exclusively for meat products. This report was made
based on our visit to the Honjo Market. |
|
Many of us may think that the Central Wholesale
Market mainly deals with the trading of fish products. According
to the data in 2006, vegetables are the most traded products
at the Honjo Market in terms of the quantity, taking up about
46 percent of the market total, while fish products, both
fresh and frozen (excluding processed products), account
for only 17 percent. As for the trade volume in yen, however,
seafood is indeed the primary category traded at the market
and makes up about 35 percent of the market total, compared
to that of vegetables (24 percent).
The day at the market begins early in the morning. The auction
for fish starts at 4:00 a.m. everyday and was finished before
we began our tour of the market at 8:00 a.m. Although we
missed the auctions, we were still able to witness various bustling activities
of the market that we don't normally see at retail stores,
such as the process of cutting up tuna, piles of whole tuna
waiting for shipment, a machine that continuously sliced
frozen salmon one after another, and so on. |
Large varieties of fish, such as tuna, are often harvested and imported from
outside Japan. We saw a big tuna from Spain being cut up at the front of one
intermediary wholesaler's shop. The wholesale market today is literally an
international showcase where a variety of food items are gathered from around
the world.
A number of processed seafood products are also traded at the market. We stopped
at another intermediary wholesaler's shop that specializes in katsuobushi (dried
bonito). Along with kombu, katsuobushi is an essential ingredient for Japanese
cooking as a base for dashi stock. The traditional process of making katsuobushi
requires time and labor; fresh bonito meat is planted with a certain variety
of fungus and goes through a process of indoor drying and sun-drying, repeated
three to four times over the period of four to six months, until it weighs
about one fifth of its original weight. Traditionally-made katsuobushi is filled
with flavor and nutrients.
"We will be losing an important part of Japanese food culture if we stop
using katsuobushi for cooking," says the owner of the shop. "I hope
more people will have a chance to experience and learn the true taste of dashi
made with good katsuobushi."
Many people today would open a packet of instant dashi to prepare stock rather
than cooking from scratch with kombu or katsuobushi. As we sampled freshly-shaven
flakes of the finest hanakatsuo at the shop, the full, exceptional flavor of
authentic katsuobushi filled our mouths. It was the true taste of nature and
matured by the attention to detail and care of the traditional producers. |
|
The chart below is the basic route that most
products take after they leave their producers until they are
eventually delivered to consumers |
|
In the above system, the wholesalers buy products
from the producers or are consigned by them to put the products
up for auction at the market, and the intermediary wholesalers
buy the products from the wholesalers and sell them to the
retailers. In other words, wholesalers are the seller and intermediary
wholesalers are the bidders at the market auctions. While this
basic wholesale system largely determines the final price of
the products, some changes have been seen in the system in
recent times. More large-scale retailers such as supermarkets
tend to buy a bulk quantity of a single product, which has
increased the number of aitai-uri (fixed-rate trade) and therefore
has decreased the traditional biddings. The number of trades
where retailers directly buy products from producers and don't
go through the wholesale market is also increasing, . |
the prices, the wholesale market serves an important
function in controlling food safety. At the market, the
inspection laboratory examines the level of pesticide
residue and food additives and watch for possible bacterial
contaminations in marketed products. Closed to the public,
the laboratory is located on the top floor of the tall
management building of the market and is equipped with
various analysis equipment, bottles of reagents, and
other lab equipment. The laboratory also has a supercritical
fluid extractor, which is a rare device to be used at
the wholesale market. The machine uses CO2 gas as a solvent
and subjects the tested product to high-pressure in order
to extract any pesticide residue, which will be further
analyzed. The equipment helps improve the automation
of extraction/analysis process and shorten the time that
is required. Since the supercritical fluid technology
itself is still new, owning such a machine is quite rare
at any testing facility. |
|
At 9:00 a.m., a loud siren went off and the
auction for fruits began. While the fish auctions mostly begin
and finish in the early morning, the auctions for vegetables
and fruits are held from early morning till later in the day.
We watched the bidding for apples and citrus fruits. Different
types of bid according to the buyer’s or bidder’s different
needs.
While the auction proceeds as sellers call out biddings in
a unique pitch and bidders busily exchange their hand signs,
it is common for the intermediary wholesalers to check the
products in advance and know what they want to bid for prior
to the auction. Once the auction starts, it is almost impossible
for outsiders to follow the procedure and see who has bid and
for how much. Sold items are marked with the price on their
boxes and are piled up one after another, waiting for shipment
to be delivered to retailers.
About 70 percent of all the auctions held at the Osaka Municipal
Central Wholesale Market (Honjo and Tobu) are for vegetables
and fruits, which well surpasses the national average (30 percent).
Considering the recent decline in the number of wholesale auctions,
the majority in vegetable/fruit auctions gives an indication
of the unique characteristic of Osaka's wholesale markets.
Although we did not quite understand what was going on at the
auction, we at least knew what made Osaka's market unique by
listening to rhythmical calls that bidders made along with
the signs, such as "takaiwaa (too expensive)" and "zenbu
itemae (I’ll take the lot)." |
|
As a recent consumer trend for food, people
are becoming more particular about the origin of the products.
While the globalization has brought us the accessibility
to a variety of food products from around the world, our
concerns about how they are produced and/or processed are
also increasing. Rising interest in food safety should be
welcomed, but it is also arguable that there has been a distorted,
excessive belief in certain products’ origins. Professionals
at the wholesale market warn us consumers that we need to
trust our own eyes and sense of taste in choosing what to
eat, rather than depending on "Product from XX’s" labels.
A young intermediary wholesaler for an eel shop says that
he hopes "more people would actually see, buy, and eat
food for themselves before they decide which products are
good to eat, regardless of where they are from.
Many of them also insist on the importance of talking with
the shop owner when shopping. "For seafood, it is essential
to talk to the shop before you pick what to buy," says
the eel shop owner. "They will tell you which one is the
freshest and which one is in the best season. Ask the shop
for their recommendation and confirm it with your own eyes
before making a final decision to buy."
This is not a tip limited to buying seafood, of course. Today,
many people shop at supermarkets, where such traditional communications
between the shop and the customer rarely occur. Although changes
in our lifestyles have been somewhat inevitable, we need to
pay more attention to what we have lost in exchange for modern
convenience. We may have lost more than we think we have gained. |
Basically, we eat what nature
provides us. It is natural that nature's products vary in
taste and nutrients, depending on the conditions of weather,
soil, or water current. However, to keep the products' quality
at a certain desired level, the producers have introduced
various machines and data technologies. We may appreciate
today's constant supply of almost any food products throughout
the year. However, we cannot immediately conclude that our
diet has been enriched because of this convenience. Some
people have pointed out that our food has actually become
less nutritious. We may have forgotten how to live on food
in a way which nature has intended.
While globalization continues to progress, new and diverse ideas
about our food and lives, such as "chisan-chisho (locally produced,
locally consumed)," have emerged. The Honjo Market is known for its unlimited
selection of products, as it is often described as "there is nothing that
is not sold (at Honjo)." At the Tobu Market (Higashisumiyoshi-ku, Osaka),
on the other hand, traditional Naniwa vegetables and other local specialties
are traded and have become a symbol of the market. Senshu mizunasu (eggplant), Kema
kyuri (cucumber), and other vegetable varieties that have been long grown
in the area are expected to become a new "brand" to promote the recognition
of Osaka City.
Food is essential for our lives and developed food culture enriches
our living. Osaka has established a unique tradition that involves food, but
how can it be saved and be inherited by the generations to come? People today
do not have much time to spend on choosing ingredients and cooking them in an
authentic manner. It has also become so easy to buy prepared food. It is often
hard for us to imagine realistically how those ingredients are produced and how
much labor has gone into their production before they eventually arrive to us
consumers. We may be facing the unprecedented time when we are surrounded by
excessively abundant food and at the same time are allowing our cherished food
culture to disappear. Our tour of the market made us determined to preserve Osaka's
invaluable tradition as a gastronomic city.
|
■Related links
Osaka Municipal Central
Wholesale Market
http://www.city.osaka.jp/shijou/ (General information available
in English)
Osaka Municipal Central Wholesale Market Honjo Market Association
http://www.honjo-osaka.or.jp/ (available only in Japanese) |
July 19, 2007
Michi Komura, Osaka Brand Center
|
|
|